Category Archives: Chile

Patagonia: Incredible mountains and glaciers

We flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, the jumping off point to see the illustrious Perito Moreno glacier.  El Calafate also had a lake with a nice marsh for birds including flamingos!  Seeing the flamingos in their natural habitat was a nice surprise.

After our day tour to the glacier, we headed for El Chaltan for some hiking.  Driving into El Chaltan, we were struck by Mount Fitz Roy and the surrounding mountains, which looked like a natural castle.  We spent the next few days hiking around, and Jen did a day tour to the Viedma glacier to go ice climbing!  Jen got lucky with good weather and a small group, but unfortunately a back injury from falling in Bariloche prevented her from really getting after the ice.  Jen got to go on this expensive adventure while Jon enjoyed another hike, since he had used up his adventure cash mountain biking.

Next, we were really excited to meet up with friends from Boulder:  Jenn (who also met us in Beijing!), Andrea, her husband Ryan, and Harlan.  They were joining us to hike the famous W track in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia!  We had already had a few winter ski hut adventures with Andrea, Ryan and Harlan, so this was not our first backcountry adventure together.

We arrived in Chile a few days early to plan, buy food, and pack.  We hiked in to the first campsite on our own, and headed up the hill to try to see the gorges “Los Torres” peaks while the weather held out.  Torres del Paine is famous for severe and changeable weather, so any sun is a blessing!   We waited and waited for our friends to arrive at the Refugio, and they finally made it around 9 pm due to some South American antics.  Since they were on a shorter (and more luxurious) vacation, they opted for staying in the refugios and paying for cooked meals, while we camped and cooked for ourselves.

The next morning, the rest of the group hiked up to the Los Torres peaks, and later we all took off for our next campsite at Los Cuernos.   The next day, we hiked up the French Valley to some of the most amazing views of the hike.  Unfortunately, the photos from this part of the hike did not turn out due to some snow and low lighting, but we could hear either glacier calving or avalanches thundering as we hiked towards the glaciers hanging off of the huge mountains.  That night, we relaxed by joining our friends in their backcountry hot tub that came with the cabins that they booked.  Unfortunately, we did not make it up to the glacier at the end of the lake (to complete the W) due to 80 km/hr winds which kept us up all night by literally slapping us with the tent.  We will be back to hike in this park again!  Patagonia with its granite rock formations was probably the most stunning scenery of the trip.

We had an amazing time with our friends, but they were heading to Buenos Aires and we headed to Brazil in time for CARNAVAL!

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¡Chi-Chi-Chi Le-Le-Le!

In an attempt to get the best fare, we had booked a flight from New Zealand to South America months ago.   As our trip to South America was approaching, we began doing research into details in Chile and Argentina.   As it turns out, we got super lucky – Valparaiso, Chile, just two hours from Santiago, apparently has the biggest New Year’s celebration in South America – perfect!   Unfortunately, we did not get off to a good start with our flight from Auckland, NZ to Santiago, Chile, as it was delayed 17 hours.   After finally arriving in Santiago in the middle of the night, we spent a day or so recovering and applying for our Brazilian Visa at the Brazilian Embassy in Chile.

We quickly headed for New Years in Valparaiso, a town with tons of character on the coast of Chile.  We spent some time wandering the cobblestone streets and enjoying the amazing street art on brightly painted homes and shops in the hills.  We scoped out some spots to watch the several fireworks displays that light up the bay along the coast of Valparaiso and its neighboring towns.  Finally, we decided to head to the beach, for views of as many of the fireworks displays as possible.  We collected some supplies in the form of a wig, a mask, silly string, and yellow underwear (a Chilean New Years tradition for good luck).  We hung out with the families on the beach, and watched all of the fireworks explode above the water, on all sides of us, while the crowd chanted “Chi-chi-chi-le-le-le!  Viva Chi-le!”  Afterwards, we headed downtown to see the band play in the square.  The streets were packed, young Chileans were out in full force, and we did our best to keep up – staying out until 4am (the parties go until 10am in some parts, we were told).

After New Years, we headed for Valpo’s cleaner and quieter suburb, Vina del Mar, to hang out for a few days.  We loved biking along the ocean on the bike paths to little beach towns.  We stayed at a wonderful hostel with incredibly kind hosts, and enjoyed practicing our Spanish with the Latin-American guests we met.

Next, we took an overnight bus to Pucon, in the Lakes District.  Pucon is nestled against a lake with a beach, with a gorgeous snow-capped volcano in the background.  We wasted no time booking a tour to climb the volcano the next day.  It took about 4 hours to climb the  volcano with crampons, and less than an hour to slide down it on sleds!  It was certainly a highlight of the trip.   The other days there we spent biking to water falls, hiking to three lakes in a beautiful National Park with a lovely French-speaking couple from Corsica who had been living in Tahiti.   It was great getting to know them and adding another destination to our desired travel list (Corsica sounds amazing!).  It was also fun, yet confusing at times, to speak French and Spanish interchangeably during the day.

We were sad to leave Pucon, but excited for a few days in Santiago before having to head to Argentina and Mendoza to meet up with Jon’s high school friend, Owen, and his wife, Sara.   The highlight of Santiago for us was our hostel, one of the best we’ve stayed at during our entire trip, and the well done museum about Chile’s Pinochet military dictatorship from 1973 to 1989.

We loved our time in Chile and happy to know that we’d be back with our adventures into Patagonia in the beginning of February.